Overview
Cambodia's official name is Kingdom of Cambodia. It is located in Southeast
Asia,
in the Pacific Ocean. It
borders Vietnam to the east, Laos to the northeast,
and
Thailand to the west and
Northwest. The population in Cambodia is
about 17 million.
The country has an area of 181,035 square kilometers. Its largest river is
Tonle Sap, and the largest river is Mekong. Cambodia is a Buddhist country,
and has several temples. Its Angkor Wat temple located in the northern
province of Krong Siem Reap, was
named a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1992,
and is a must-visit on most travellers' bucket list.
Unfortunately, people of this country had to undergo extreme brutalities
during the era of dictator Pol Pot's Khmer Rouge regime, from 1975 to 1979.
The
major cities in Cambodia are Phnom Penh, Battambang and Siem Reap.
Angkor Wat
Located
in Krong Siem Reap, Angkor Wat is the
world's largest religious complex and spans 400 acres. It was listed as a
UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1992. In Khmer Language, Angkor means Capital
City, and Wat means Temple Grounds, so the name means 'City of Temples'. Originally built as a Hindu temple dedicated to God Vishnu, it gradually
became a Buddhist temple toward the end of the 12th Century. The
temple itself consists of three levels.
T
he complex is oriented toward the West, which in Hindu culture, symbolizes death.A
huge reservoir and moat surrounds Angkor complex. There is an 820 foot
sandstone causeway leading up to the temple. Five gates lead to it
-
North,
South, East, West
the
Victory Gate and 12 staircases, each of which has 41
steps. This odd number is considered
to be lucky. The first floor
symbolizes hell or the water, the second floor symbolizes the earth or soil,
and the third, symbolizes heaven or the wind. Angkor Wat was built as a
symbolic representation of Mount Meru. In Hindu Mythology it is believed
that the gods Brahma, Shiva and Vishnu reside atop this mountain. There are
numerous statues of Buddha and Boddhisatvas. It is believed that King
Suryavarman II King of the Khmer Empire (1113 to 1150) built this temple as
a burial place for himself. Five million tons of sandstone was used for the
construction. The walls are adorned with bas reliefs which relate hundreds
of stories, including scenes from the Ramayana, The Churning of the Ocean of
Milk, and historical occurrences from the life of Suryavarman II. On the
walls are carvings of over 1500 apsaras (heavenly maidens).
The
image of Angkor Wat has appeared in the center of the national flag of
Cambodia since 1875. There are
about 72 major temples found within the Angkor Wat area.
There is a dress code to enter, you need to be dressed either in trousers, a
long skirt or shorts that reach up to the knees.
Buying the ticket at the entrance, with your photograph included, will gain
you access into the many temples. As the ticket has your image on it, it is
not transferrable.
Travel advice
It is suggested that you should wear a sturdy pair of walking shoes, as you will have to do a great deal of climbing, stepping over uneven surfaces, and climbing steep steps. Recommend the use of sun block, and either a cap or an umbrella, as the sun can be mercilessly hot. It is also advisable that you should carry cold bottled water with you, as it is important to stay hydrated.Operating Hours
The complex is open and accessible every day of the year, but the cooler months are more popular, from November to March. You will, however find yourself jostling in the midst of very large crowds whilst sightseeing these marvelous sites.
Silver Pagoda
The
Silver Pagoda is situated on the South Side of the Royal Palace in Phnom
Penh. This was known as Wat Preah Keo Morakot, meaning Temple of the Emerald
Crystal Buddha. Inside are a series of Buddha Statues, made of precious
metals. The temple is so named as its floor is paved with five tones of
silver. Inside is a solid Gold Buddha statue, decorated with diamonds.
Directly in front of it is a silver and gold stupa, containing a relic of
Buddha which was brought over from Sri Lanka.
The
Pagoda was originally constructed in 1892 during the reign of King Norodom
who was apparently inspired by Bangkok's Wat Phra Kaew temple.
The
Vihara houses many treasures, including gold and jeweled Buddha statues.
The
most significant of these statues is the small, green crystal Buddha.
Tuol Sleng Genocide
Museum
Tuol
Sleng means 'Hill of the Poisonous Trees.'
This
genocide museum is located in Phnom Penh. The so called Security prison,
code named S 21 is a former secondary school which was used by the Khmer
regime as a prison between 1976 and 1979. There are five buildings, which
were converted to a prison and interrogation center.
The windows of the higher floors were covered with iron bars, and
electrified barbed wire, to prevent suicide and escapes.
In
1976 most of the victims were soldiers from the previous regime, academics,
doctors, engineers, teachers, factory workers and monks. Later, even high
ranking politicians were brought here, tortured and murdered. They arrived
blindfolded in trucks, interrogated, and photographed. They had to give
details of their lives up to the time of their arrests. Then they had to
strip down to their underwear and their possessions were confiscated. Those
taken to small cells were shackled to the floor. Those in larger rooms were
shackled to a long bar with up to forty others. They slept on the floor
without mattresses or blankets and were forbidden to talk to each other.
Later, even some guards had allegations against them, and became prisoners.
There are a few rooms, with an iron bed placed in the center. This is the
interrogation room. On the wall is a black and white photo of the prisoner
who was tied to the bed. It is not clear, but there are signs of brutality
in the photo, some even suggest that the prisoner's throat had been slashed
after interrogation.
Innocent people were forced to confess to treason, and were forced to name
people they knew, as fellow traitors. Then these other people would be
arrested and tortured as well. You will pass a room with display boards of
mug shots of prisoners when they arrived, photos of prisoners who died in
detention, in a different section, black and white mug shots of the
tormentors, and even some photos of important prisoners after they were
executed. There were different units, and the guards had to obey orders too.
Some were given the authority to torture prisoners, while others were not.
There is a room at the end of the corridor, we saw a small cell, which our
guide Chanda informed us, was used as a rape room.
On
the higher floor, the women prisoner's common cells were constructed of
wood, as they were less likely to attempt escape. There is a hole the wall,
through which food and information could be passed.
There is also a children's section housed in another building.
Outside the museum, you will get the opportunity to meet two survivors Bou
Meng and Chum Mey, 82 and 92 years old respectively. They were one of the
hand full of people who survived the horrendous hellhole of Toul Sleng.
Today sitting behind desks outside the genocide museum, the two men meet
visitors and sell their respective memoirs to them.
Bou Meng used to be a highly skilled
painter who was used by the Khmer to produce hand painted portraits of Pol
Pot, while Chum Mey, was a mechanic who used to fix machinery in the prison
workshop. The specialized skills
of these two men, put their death sentences on hold.
There were five other adult survivors but they have since passed on.
Killing Fields (Choeung
Ek)
After World War II, the Americans and French fought against communism in
Vietnam and Korea. Cambodia became independent in 1953 after the fall of Ho
Chi Minh City where the French Indochina was defeated.
Cambodia's Monarch Sihanouk stayed neutral during the Vietnam war. But in
1970, he was ousted by a French backed coup. Cambodia's civil war ended in
1975. And Phnom Penh fell to the Khmer Rouge. At first, people celebrated
the end of the civil war. They held white flags and stood on the streets,
cheering the soldiers. But only hours later, the Khmer officials were
banging on their doors, telling them to evacuate to the countryside. Those
who resisted were shot dead.
The
Khmer Rouge marched the urban population to the countryside, in a bid to
build an agrarian society. Only people who could work in the fields were
useful to them. The others were considered a threat.
At
the entrance of Killing Fields, there is a glass shrine housing 8000 human
skulls.
The Killing fields is a site of mass
murder, where over three million people were killed during the Khmer regime
between 1975 and 1979. These killings were genocide carried out by the state
sponsored Khmer Rouge headed by their ruthless Khmer leader Pol Pot.
The new regime also started destroying the western influence. People were
knelt, gagged and bound before being killed. Axes, knives, the sharp edges
of sugar palm fronds and bamboo sticks were used for the executions, as the
Khmer Rouge did not want to waste bullets.
Today at the Killing Fields, fragments of human bones are unearthed from the
ground, during heavy rains. So are the clothes and dental remains of those
executed. The Khmer rulers killed people who they thought were inappropriate
for the new agrarian society that they wanted to create. Accordingly they
killed educated people, such as doctors, lawyers, professors, teachers, as
well as ethnic minorities such as Vietnamese, Chinese and Muslims, clergy,
and even people who wore glasses. Children had their heads bashed against
the trunks of Chankiri trees. Khmer music was played over loud speakers
slung on the killing tree so that mourns and screams of the terrified
children were suppressed. Children were killed so they would not grow up to
avenge the deaths of their parents.
Among the methods of killing were decapitations, slashing of throats with
the sharp edges of palm sugar fronds, stabbings or blows to the head. Many
were made to dig their own graves, and then executed and pushed into the
muddy pits. Many people died of starvation, overwork and diseases like
tuberculosis, Malaria and dengue. People often pretended to be less educated
than they were, in order to avoid being executed.
Rice Paper Making
Rice
Paper making is one of the traditional crafts of Cambodia. This rice paper
is made for making Spring rolls. In Battambang, a few families still make a
living by producing rice paper by hand. The ground and dried rice is mixed
with salt water, and flattened. Then it is make into a disc and steamed
after which they are solidified by drying in the sun on bamboo mats, for up
to two hours. The family we saw making rice paper, said that they make about
1500 per day.
You
may taste the rice paper right after it is prepared!
Cambodia Sticky rice
This
is a tasty type of rice, made by mixing glutinous rice, beans, coconut milk,
grated coconut, and palm sugar which is cooked in a bamboo tube, over a fire
for about one and a half hours.
It
is known as Kralan, and is sold on
the roadside in Cambodia.
Battambang Bamboo Train
This
train, which is basically a bamboo platform with no roof, rattles down a
train track at 50 kilometers, while you are precariously seated on it. As
you journey along the tracks, you are able to enjoy glimpses of the
beautiful countryside. If there is another train coming toward you, then the
passengers on the way up have to disembark and stand on the verge, while
their train is dismantled, the returning train which is given priority
passes before the ongoing one resumes their journey. At a halfway point,
passengers alight and are given the opportunity to browse by some souvenir
shops located by the track, where you may purchase tee shirts, caps,
'elephant pants' etc. Be
prepared to encounter a few child touts as well. All in all, it is a
fantastic, once in a lifetime experience.
Stilt Wooden Houses
You
will see stilt wooden houses on the way side of the road, as you journey
between Battambang and Siem Reap. These were built so that the annual floods
would not affect the houses.
These traditional, Khmer rural houses are a charming sight. Wooden steps,
ramps or staircases lead up to the top levels.
Bayon Temple
Bayon temple is a Cambodian Buddhist pyramidal temple which was built in the
late 12th or early 13th century.
This temple has no moats of surrounding walls.
It is located in the city of Angkor Thom.
There is a dispute among scholars at to whom the carved faces etched
into the many towers belong to. Some believe it is King Jayavarman VII.
Others identify these as one of the many faces of Hindu god Shiva. Still
others offer the most reasonable explanation, that these faces are the
Boddhisatvas.
The
temple was built by King Jayavarman VII.
Ta Prohm Temple
This
is also known as 'Jungle Temple.' It is one of the most mysterious temples
as well as one of the most fascinating to visit in Siem Reap. It was
featured in the movie Tomb Raider, starring actress Angelina Jolie.
The
temple is dedicated to the mother of King Jayavarman VII.
The undisputed capital in
the Kingdom of Trees. Feature many Banyan and Kapok trees with roots that
snake their way over walls, stones and towers.
Ta
Prohm is one of the largest monuments in the Angkor Complex.
It has been left in its natural state by archeologists, however there
are paths for tourists to explore through.
Banteay Srei
Banteay Srei means Citadel of Women, and it is possibly built by a woman.
This
is a 10th century Hindu temple, dedicated to the Hindu gods Shiva
and Parvati. The buildings are miniature in scale. It is built largely on
red sandstone. This is the only temple at Angkor which was not commissioned
by a monarch. It was instead said to be commissioned by courtiers named
Vishnukumar and Yaknavaraha. This temple is located in Siem Reap in the
Angkor area, located north east of the main group of temples.
Phnom Kulen Mountain
Phnom Kulen Mountain is a National Park located in Siem Reap. It was
established in 1993.
During the Khmer period this was known as Mahendraparvata (The mountain of
Great Indra).
It
is located along with Kbal Spean river, which is a tributary of Siem Reap
River. There is a waterfall in Phnom Kulen National Park, where you may take
a dip in if you so wish!
Phnom Kulen reclining
Buddha
The
temple in Kulen Mountain, Siem Reap, houses a large, reclining Buddha
statue.
The
statue is carved directly out of Mountain stone.
Kbal Spean (The River of
a Thousand Lingas)
This
is an archeological site located on the southwest slopes of Kulen Mountains
in Banteay Srei district in Siem Reap.
It
is set deep in the jungle to the northeast of Angkor.
APOPO de-mining centre,
Siem Reap
The
APOPO center worked with the Cambodian Mine Action Center since 2014 to
remove landmines and explosives in Cambodia. This targets the landmine
affected villages in Cambodia.
Landmine detection giant African pouched rats use their keen sense of smell
to detect TNT explosive devices. It is interesting to watch a demonstration
of landmine detecting, by a giant rat at the APOPO center. You may get a
chance of holding a rat. We were told they do not bite. However, you are
required to wash your hands prior to this, in order to remove all traces of
lotion and the like.
There is a gift shop at the center,
where you may purchase souvenirs.
Amok Trey
This
is a Cambodian steamed fish curry, cooked coconut milk, soy sauce, brown
sugar and kaffir lime. It has a mousse like consistency, and is served in a
banana leaf.
Beer
There are many varieties of beers in Cambodia with which to wash down the
delicious food, among the most popular are Angkor Beer, Cambodia beer and
Ganzberg.
Restaurants:
Haven Restaurant,
Chocolate Road, Siem Reap: This is a restaurant that helps underprivileged
adults by offering them training in the hospitality sector, which opens new
life prospects for them.
By
having a meal at Haven restaurant, you are helping the training program and
the trainees. This restaurant is the brainchild of Sara Walliman and her
husband Paul, who are from Switzerland.
Mali's
Norodom Blvd, Siem Reap. This
has a pond, a space for apsara dance performances, and a lovely garden.
Coconut Lyly, Battambang:
This is a Khmer restaurant and a cooking school in Battambang. It is a small, charming restaurant which is family owned and operated. Lyly is the young man who owns the place and he is assisted by his wife.The eVisa for Cambodia is straightforward for genuine tourist applicants. We
assist with its completion for a fee.
Online Cambodia visa
